Roadkill squirrel recipe

My trip to the Lost Gardens of Heligan was meant to be about cooking fruit and vegetables from their superb reconstructed Victorian kitchen garden. Peter Stafford, managing director, had other ideas. An enthusiast for anatomy and wildlife, he happened to spot a grey squirrel by the side of the road, still warm after being hit by a car. Did I fancy cooking it?

Well, of course I did. Quite apart from having the Telegraph’s reputation for fearlessness to uphold, I’m well aware that grey squirrels are not only plentiful but something of a pest, and therefore eating them is positively ethical.

I’d eaten squirrel once before and enjoyed its rabbit-like and, yes, nutty flavour. Peter was offering to give me a masterclass in skinning and gutting the animal. An opportunity not to be missed.

Squirrel with Red Wine and Juniper

Serves 2

2 squirrels

1 tbsp plain flour (optional)

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 carrot, finely chopped

4 rashers streaky bacon, chopped

1 clove garlic, chopped

10floz/300ml red wine (something fairly light, like a Beaujolais)

1 pint/600ml stock or water

a sprig of thyme

4 juniper berries, crushed

If your squirrels are still “in the fur” then your first job is gutting and skinning. Don’t panic. It turns out to be not nearly as disgusting as it sounds. In fact, compared to gutting fish (which let’s face it, is pretty fishy) it’s clean and tidy.

Gutting the squirrel

With a scalpel or very sharp knife cut along the abdomen, starting at the base of the rib cage. Pull out the intestines. (The liver and baked bean-sized kidneys can be fried quickly, seasoned and eaten as a cook’s perk.)

Using the scalpel or knife, ease the skin off the flesh – unlike rabbit, whose skin can be removed by simply pulling, squirrel skin is attached at many points, and needs cutting free. Work around the limbs, cutting it just above the feet.

Cut off the head and feet. Remove the pelt and extremities from your working area (they will almost certainly have fleas and lice in them, although most will have migrated to behind the ears, the last spot to cool on the animal). Wash your hands and the work surface well. Rinse the carcase thoroughly.

Cut through the diaphragm and remove the lungs, heart etc. (Like the kidneys and liver, the heart is good to eat lightly fried.)

Jointing the animal

Cut the hind quarters off in one piece, then divide into two legs.

Cut the forequarters off to give you two tiny “shoulder joints”.

The thorax (rib cage etc) does not have a great deal of meat on, but is worth adding to the casserole to enrich the sauce.

To make the casserole

Dust the squirrel with flour. (This is optional, making for a thicker sauce for your casserole. Up to you.)

Heat the oil in a large pan and brown the squirrel pieces on both sides.

Scoop them out into a bowl and add the onion, carrot, bacon and garlic to the pan. Cook on a medium low heat for ten to fifteen minutes until the bacon is coloured and the onion is soft.

Add the wine, thyme and juniper berries. Bring to the boil and simmer for a minute.

Return the squirrel to the casserole and add the thyme, juniper and seasoning. Add enough stock or water to almost cover the meat.

Cook gently for an hour and a half, until the squirrel is tender. Scoop the squirrel into a serving dish and boil the juices to reduce them a little. Taste and season with salt and pepper, then pour over the squirrel. Serve with mashed potatoes.

Source: Telegraph